How we spent a week in Kefalonia
I first went to Kefalonia in 2004, at the same time as the Athens Olympics. So my main memory of the island was that it was very Greek, as so many mainlanders had left the city for the summer to escape the crowds. And when three friends suggested it for a summer holiday in July, I couldn’t wait to go back and explore some more.
Things to do in Kefalonia
There are so many lovely towns, beaches, restaurants, and historical sights to see in Kefalonia. It may have been possible to fit it all into one week, if we were very busy. But instead, we favoured relaxing and eating lots of Greek food. But if you’re considering a Greek island holiday, Kefalonia is worth a visit if you want to:
Go to the beach
Visit the traditional Greek towns
Visit the only town on the island that wasn’t destroyed in an earthquake
Take a boat trip
Visit the historic castles and forts
The best beaches in Kefalonia
During our week in Kefalonia, relaxation was our main goal. So we spent almost every day at the beach. We drove across the island from our villa in the south, exploring different beaches and bays. These were some of our favourites.
Skala
Skala is one of the larger towns in the south of Kefalonia and its long, sandy and pebbly beach is one of the most famous on the island. We came here twice. The first time we relaxed on the sunbeds at the Ammos beach bar on the northern side of the beach. The second, we went to the south.
While the northern end of the beach is a little quieter (and the food at Ammos was great!) the current in the sea is stronger here. In the south, the beach is slightly less windy so the sea is a little more still. However, it’s crystal clear, calm, and easy for swimming wherever you go.
If you have the time, take an hour or so to wander around the quaint town of Skala and maybe have dinner amongst the beach-side pines.
Lourdas
We were staying close to Lordata, the village where you’ll find Lourdas beach. Otherwise, we might not have found this gem. We came to Lourdata a few times during our holiday, sitting close to the Hemingway bar, where it’s a little quieter. Despite being quite a small beach, there are plenty of sunbeds and even watersports here.
There are plenty of small restaurants in this area, and we also went into Argostoli one night. However, this is a great place to indulge in a big dinner at a beach bar. We loved the Klimatis Tavern for a big seafood lunch and amazing Greek salads.
Myrtos
You might recognise Myrtos beach. Its amazing bright blue sea and white sands are a popular attraction for tourists. It was also the main filming location for the movie Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. Stop on the way down to the beach to take pictures from the viewpoint, as you probably won’t want to stop on your way back up.
The road to Myrtos is steep and busy, and you’ll be parking in a bumpy gravel car park with no shade to keep your car cool. We also had to wait about 15 minutes to find a free sunbed with umbrellas, which are worth paying for here as the sun on the white pebbles and sand is relentlessly hot.
The sea has its amazing misty blue appearance due to the white sand underneath, so its not clear for snorklelling, but it’s a great place to swim – especially when the waves come in. There is a beach bar at Myrtos, but we decided to drive to the nearby fishing town of Assos for dinner. There’s a small beach here, but it’s pebbles only so it’s a nice place to watch the sunset or have a drink before heading to a nearby seafood restaurant.
Emplisi
Head to the far north of the island to see Fiskardo, the only remaining authentic old town in Kefalonia. The island was hit by an earthquake in 1953 and razed many towns to the ground. But Fiskardo remained, and now it's an upmarket harbour town filled with yachts, seafood restaurants, quaint shops, and the only Michelin star kitchen in Kefalonia.
But before (or after) you head to the town, check out Emplisi beach. It’s small, and it's pebbly, but it’s one of the best beaches we visited during out holiday. Surrounded by trees and plateaus of rock, this felt like a real local spot. The sea was clear and still, making it a great place to snorkel, and with sun umbrellas it was fairly easy to stay in the shade during the European heatwave.
You can park for free behind the beach, or along the winding road that leads down to it. There isn’t a shower, but there is a running salt water tap where you can rinse off. There’s also a small bar that serves drinks all day.
Do you need to rent a car in Kefalonia?
You could go to Kefalonia and stay in one beach town, if it’s a relaxing holiday you’re after. But we found that hiring a small car – which cost around £80 per person for the week – made it easier to explore. Our villa wasn’t walking distance from the beach, but was only a ten minute drive. We also wouldn’t have been able to visit Assos, Myrtos Beach, Fiskardo, and Emplisi beach without cars. However, it’s quite easy to get taxis locally and some hotels may be able to organise coach trips for days out.
What to pack for a week in Kefalonia
When we visited Kefalonia, Europe was in the midst of a heatwave. On the mainland, Greece was exceeding 40ºC during the day. But on the islands, it was mostly around 30-35ºC. Still hot, but a nice temperature for us to lay on the beach all day.
Even if you’re not visiting during super high temperatures, you probably won’t need many layers for a summer holiday in Kefalonia. But don’t forget to check the forecast before you go.
This is what I packed for a four days in Kefalonia in July:
Two oversized t-shirts
Two vest tops
One check shirt
Two mini dresses
Three maxi dresses for day or night
One kimono to wear as a dress or beach cover
A jumpsuit
A sun hat
A pair of sandals
A pair of trainers
Sunglasses
A microfibre towel
A small beach blanket
Regular daily toiletries + SPF
This was enough to have day and night options, while still being able to pack for carry-on luggage. You could take more – and bear in mind that in the heat you probably won’t be wanting to rewear anything unless you have a washer!
Planning more trips to Greek islands? Check out our itinerary for a week in Santorini.