How we spent one week in Seoul
We stayed in the Hongdae district of Seoul which is like staying in central London. It’s busy and there are so many places to eat and drink it can feel overwhelming to choose. But it’s fun and vibrant and I’m really glad we chose to stay here.
We wandered up and down the Book Line/Forest Line, drank soju in as many local bars as we could, and had some amazing BBQ (even veggie!) right on our doorstep.
We split our seven days in Seoul into two parts, and we found that this was a good amount of time to explore the main things we wanted to see.
The city is massive, and you’d need a month or more to see all of it. But these were our favourite things to do in Seoul.
Mount Namsan
From Seoul station (exit 10 close to the Hilton Hotel) it takes less than an hour to reach the top of Mount Namsan. This mountain in the middle of the city is home to landmarks and museums from the Japanese colonisation, the ancient city wall, and the famous Namsan tower.
There are walls lined with brightly coloured love locks, cafes and bars, and even a 7-Eleven at the top. So it’s not your regular mountain hike. In fact there are steps the whole way up. So if you’re up for a fairly easy walk 300m upwards, you’ll be rewarded with amazing views across the city and the Bukhansan National Park to the north.
Seoullo 7017
If you walk back down Mount Namsan the same way, towards Seoul Station, you’ll come out at one end of the Seoullo 7017. It’s a walkway similar to the New York High Line that’s lined with trees and flowers, and takes you over the busy streets around Seoul Station. If you’re in the area, it’s a nice 1km stroll that seems peaceful against the backdrop of the busy city below you.
Ihwa Mural Village
This ‘village’ is a residential neighbourhood in the north east of the city, right on the border of the historic city wall. Since 2006, the walls have been adorned with street art making it a popular tourist spot. But this has brought issues for residents so, if you do visit, be quiet, respectful of the fact that people live here, and if you can support a local business by buying a drink or some food.
As you wander the small, steep streets there are murals across many of the walls. They’re not top level art, but they’re quaint and charming and a great place to visit if you want to experience an area outside the bustle of the city centre. We travelled from Seoul Station to Hyehwa and walked 15 minutes to the village, where we spent about an hour exploring the winding streets (and drinking highballs).
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Gyeongbokgung Palace is in the north of central Seoul and has been on this site since the late 1300s. It was destroyed and rebuilt, but is still beautiful and impressive. The grounds are busy with tourists, many dressed in traditional hanboks (which gets you free entry). But it still feels calm and peaceful to wander around the old halls and gardens.
We entered through the impressive Gwanghwamun gate, and paid 3,000 won per person (about £1.75) per person. We spent about an hour at the palace before moving on to the Bukchon Hanok Village.
Bukchon Hanok Village
These steep streets are lined with traditional hanok-style shops and houses, some of which you can enter and others you just have to view from the outside.
Like Gyengbokgung Palace, the area is busy with tourists dressed in hanboks. But if you’re already in the area it’s worth spending 20 minutes or so exploring the historic buildings. It’s free to enter and many of the restaurants nearby serve great food (our favourite was Samcheongdong Korean Pancakes).
DMZ Tour
We booked a tour to the DMZ with VIP Travel, which takes about 7 hours and costs £40 per person. This was one of the experiences I was most looking forward to in South Korea, as I was interested in learning more about the country’s history and its relations with North Korea.
The trip takes you to Imjingak Park, which is one of the last points before crossing into the DMZ, an observatory where you can see the North Korean city of Kaesong, one of the tunnels that North Korea was digging to i cate the South, and one of the two villages located in the DMZ. During the drive (which is 45 minutes to an hour from Seoul) the tour guide explains the history and what the DMZ actually is.
Find out more about our DMZ tour and what happens when you visit the North Korea border here.
Starfield Library
We went to Gangnam just to check out the area and to be honest it was like going to Canary Wharf on a Saturday (but less modern). The one thing that was worth seeing was the amazing library – which is really a bookshop – where the open space and glass ceiling is lined wall-to-wall with books.
Itaewon
A slightly more grown up version of Hongdae with the same buzzy feel, Itaewon was one of our favourite spots for a night out. The small streets are lined with so many bars and restaurants you’ll easily be able to find whatever you’re looking for. We didn’t always make the best choices, though. So check Naver for reviews!
Myeongdong
This shopping district in the centre of Seoul is busy with both tourists and locals. From high-end stores to street food stalls and fake bags sold on the floor, you could buy almost anything here. But even if you don’t need to shop, it’s an interesting spot to spend an hour or so. And if you visit at night, you’ll see the signs that line the streets all lit up.
Euljiro Nogari Alley
During the day, this lane felt like the Seoul equivalent to Hackney Wick. The alley is lined with bars on one side and industrial factories on the other. And on a Saturday afternoon we were the only westerners drinking here. It’s fun, laid-back, and there are endless places to find cheap beer or soju.
Gwangjang Market
If you want to experience authentic Korean street food, head to Gwangjang Market. Entering from the southern end, most of the stalls sell similar meals – a combination of dumplings, bibimbap, noodles, and pork. You’ll also find pancakes, doughnuts, fresh fruit, and plenty of souvenirs. We stopped here for lunch and the barley bibimbap was one of the best meals I had in Seoul.
Dongdaemun Design Plaza
Designed by Zaha Hadid, this impressive building in the centre of Seoul is home to a number of exhibition halls. At the time of our visit the only thing on was a celebration of Hello Kitty’s 50th birthday… but seeing it from the outside is just as cool as whatever’s on the inside. In this area you’ll also find design stores and a clothing market that are great for shopping.
Cheonggyecheon Stream
Wandering along Cheonggyecheon stream doesn’t feel like being in the centre of a busy city. We walked the stretch between Dongdaemun and Euljiro, but the length of the stream is a lot longer and the paths are well maintained. You can also cross easily at the many footbridges and stepping stones – so don’t worry about what side you start on!
Eating and drinking
We ate and drank a lot in Seoul. These were some of our favourite spots where I was also able to find veggie food:
Hello Hello, Hongdae
Artmonster, Hongdae
Hong Kochi, Hongdae
Monster pub, Hongdae
Beben, Hongdae
Chosun Buttumak, Hongdae
Hahoe Village, Hongdae
Plant Cafe, Yeonnam
Italian Brewery (이태리양조장 연남점), Yeonnam
Chez Valerie, Mapo-gu
Small Happiness, Jongno-gu
Samcheongdong Korean Pancakes, Jongno-gu
Gwangjang Market, Jongno-gu
Ssada, Myeongdong
Find out more about where to find veggie food in South Korea and how we spent two weeks in the country here.
Note: I chose and paid for my DMZ tour independently. This post is not an advertorial and is a true reflection of my experience with VVIP Tours. However, if you book yours through my Viator link, I might make a little bit of money through affiliation.