How we spent four days in Copenhagen
I’d been wanting to visit Copenhagen for a while. So when a friend was back from Australia for a month and wanted to go on a European city break, it seemed like the perfect opportunity. We organised a weekend in Copenhagen, but left the planning until we got there.
Flying from London to Copenhagen takes about 1.5 hours and cost me about £85 in October 2023. So getting there was easy… But the main thing to know about Copenhagen – and Sandinavia in general – is that it’s not cheap once you’re there.
However, what did strike me is how clean and safe Copenhagen feels compared to other European cities. The streets and metro stations were immaculate, and even at night and in quieter areas it never felt unsettling to walk around. It’s also a very walkable city, so there’s no need to hire a car and all transport links are cheap and easy to use.
Things to do in Copenhagen
The good news is, plenty of the things to do in Copenhagen are free. So we spent most of our money on eating out, which is well worth it in this foodie hotspot. Here’s everything we did during our long weekend in Copenhagen.
Visit Freetown Christiania
The area of Christiania is best known as the place where you can freely buy and smoke weed in Copenhagen. But since the stalls on Pusher Street are now thought to mostly fund gangs, and not the community that live there. The commune is on a squatted former military base, and is a pseudo-anarchist community that allows the use of weed, but nothing stronger than alcohol.
Around 900 people live in Christainia, which the locals call Freetown. The area is governed by its residents, and as you walk around you’ll see the array of bohemian houses, many with amazing plant-filled gardens, throughout Freeetown.
Once you’re past the main area full of dealers, the neighbourhood opens up into a beautiful path than runs along the canal and is surrounded by plants and woodland. It took us almost two hours to wander the full loop around the canal, which felt much further from the city centre that it really is.
Eat out
Copenhagen is known for its foodie scene. In fact, you’ll find noma – recognized as the best restaurant in the world – at the northern tip of Christiania. But you’ll need to book far in advance (and start saving now) if you want dinner there. Instead, we ate at these spots:
Olioli: casual lunch in a poke restaurant (approx £20)
H15: a delicious dinner in a quirky location within the Meatpacking District (approx £40)
Corsa Pizza: a laid-back and trendy pizza place in Seaport (approx £25)
Bistro Verde: a delicious vegan spot close to Amalienborg (approx £45)
Ruby: a classy cocktail bar with an experimental menu, listed on the World’s 50 Best (around £15 per drink)
1656: a trendy cocktail bar in the Meatpacking District, with no signage and a cosy interior (around £15 per drink)
Wander down Nyhavn
The iconic colourful buildings in Copenhagen, which you’ve probably seen pictured hundreds of times, are on Nyhavn. The old street is on the waterfront and now, almost all the buildings are bars and restaurants where you can sit and people watch for a while. Unlike many inner-city tourist attractions in Europe, Nyhavn is actually worth the visit. The streets feel authentic, though busy, and while they probably don’t serve the best food in the city, the bars are a nice place to stop for a drink before you head out to explore the rest of Copenhagen.
Check out the opera house
While you’re in Nyhaven, wander to the edge of the water, past Det Kongelige Teater, and take in the view of the Operaen. The modern building sits on the opposite side of the harbour. We didn’t go inside, but it is designed to look like the inside of a heart and is crafted from the same wood used to make fine instruments.
Catch the ferry
We were staying in the Seaport area, near Orientskaj, where the Copenhagen ferry route begins. So it seemed like a good way to view the city from a different perspective. It took just under 40 minutes to get from Orientskaj to the Nyhavn docking point. During the journey we passed Trekoner Fort with its lighthouse, The Little Mermaid, Nyholm, Operaen, and a number of huge cruise liners. It’s not the fastest way to get around, but if you have the time it’s a fun and relaxed experience.
Go up the round tower
For an even more impressive perspective of Copenhagen, go up The Round Tower (Rundetaarn). It costs around £4 to enter, and on the way up you’ll come across various historic exhibits. The spiral walkway is fairly long but not too steep, and within 10 minutes you’ll be at the top of the tower. From here, you can take in sweeping views across the city, including the Øresund Bridge that connects Copenhagen to Malmö.
Spend an evening in the Meatpacking District
If you’re looking for a fun night out in Copenhagen, head to the Meatpacking District. Though drinking culture is less of an issue in Copenhagen than the UK (probably due to the price of going out…) there is still a great nightlife scene. From trendy restaurants to classy cocktail bars and more relaxed pubs, you’ll find it all in this fashionable district to the west of the city centre.
Cross the bridge to Sweden
I’m not saying you should go to Copenhagen just to leave it. But we wanted to cross the famous Øresundsbron – best known to me from the Scandi crime drama The Bridge. And since it cost less than £20 to catch the train to a whole different country, we took the chance on a sunny morning. It takes about 40 minutes from Copenhagen central station to Malmö. From there, we wandered around the square at Lilla Torg and the Slottstradgarten around Malmö castle.
After lunch, we took a 12 minute train into Lund. This small and quaint town had a more traditional Scandiavian feel to it than the harbour city of Malmö. And since it was on the same train line, it was easy to get back to Copenhagen in time for dinner.
So if you don’t have a weekend packed full of plans in Denmark, this is definitely a cheap and easy way to explore more of Scandinavia in one trip.
See the Little Mermaid statue
If you have time and are in the right area of Copenhagen, it’s worth walking along the water or through the park to see the statue of the Little Mermaid. It’s often listed as one of the main sights to see in the city. But be aware: it’s small, and it attracts large crowds. So you may find yourself walking for 20 minutes to wait for 10 minutes to take photos for 30 seconds.
What to pack for a weekend in Copenhagen
The weather in Copenhagen in October stayed at around 14ºC, although when the sun was out it did feel warmer. The key to dressing for colder Scandinavian weather is layering. So pack things that can be worn together, and taken on and off as needed.
This is what I packed for a weekend in Copenhagen in October:
One coat
Two jumpers
Three t-shirts
One long-sleeved top
A dress
Two pairs of trousers
A hat
Sunglasses
A pair of Dr Martens
A pair of trainers
Regular daily toiletries, including hand cream – it’s cold and dry there!
Looking for more weekends away in Scandinavia? Check out our itinerary for a trip to the Arctic Circle.